The thing nobody ever brings up in this fight is that torque specs assume clean, dry threads unless the manual says otherwise, and half the bolts on a 40 year old plane have been oiled, anti-seized, or stretched by some guy before you. A lubed bolt torqued to the dry number can be 25 percent overstretched, so Dale IS right that the book number isn't always the real number. But the answer isn't your wrist, it's looking up the wet torque value or measuring bolt stretch on the critical stuff. Feel can't tell you if a bolt is already past its elastic limit, and that's the part that kills people. A wrench with a known setting and threads prepped right beats both the book and the hand every single time. Trust the spec, but only after you check what the spec was written for.

That 20 minutes hits different once you see how the shims sit in the clips and keep the pad from vibrating. What got me was caliper slide pins, I greased them for years without ever pulling the boots to check for water and rust inside, and half the time one pin was frozen solid and I never knew it because the car still stopped fine. Now I pull every pin, clean it, and re-grease with the right silicone stuff. The pedal feel and even pad wear are night and day, and it costs basically nothing but time.